1. Be sure there are no protruding parts underneath the front/rear glass - press a flat hand on the parts stacked beneath them to check for pressure points, and be sure the box appears flat when closed, not raised in the center from parts stacked too high. Then pack the foam block containing the metal body parts above the plastic parts box. This is safer, believe it or not, because the flat bottom of the foam block will evenly distribute and lessen any crushing or shock forces onto the parts below, instead of them being directly vulnerable to a sharp or crushing force from above.
2. Even better: take the sprue with the windshield and rear glass, cut the sprue midway between them without removing from the bag, fold to fit and place inside the foam block in the void beneath the main body shell. Retape the foam block and pack in the kit box as noted above.

1. Open the foam block slightly, and turn right side up if the parts inside are not upright. Carefully separate the halves and notice how the parts fit into the packaging. Tighten the two screws that hold the front valance (lower part of the nose) to the hood, so it doesn't rattle when shaken. If these screws are loose the back portion of the hood can "droop" in the foam packaging and contact the rear deck.
2. Replace the front hood, place a folded soft cotton cloth across the gap where the parts overlap, and carefully replace the top of the foam block. If it doesn't fit tightly against the bottom half the parts inside are not aligned correctly - remove and check that the hood fits properly in the foam.
3. Once the two foam halves fit flush with each other, tape the seam continuously all around the foam block.
4. Place the foam block on top of the plastic parts box as noted above.

1. Detach the front hood (by removing one screw under the front of the car and sliding off the hinge pins), pad thoroughly and immobilize in the box.
2. Insert soft, thin padding (a T-shirt?) between the rear engine cover and the body.
3. Put a roll of bubble-wrap or other padding between the wheels and running the length of the chassis front to back, thick enough that the tires are just off the ground and the chassis will absorb shocks, not the tires/wheels/suspension.
4. Wrap the body in soft cotton, flannel, or flat foam sheet, not bubblewrap, plastic wrap, or tissue paper. Bubblewrap/plastic wrap  can interact with the paint and leave permanent marks. Tissue paper can abrade the finish and leave scratches.
5. Once the body, paint finish, and suspension are softly and adequately protected, wrap the whole car in bubblewrap tightly enough the keep and body panels from opening or rattling (but not so tight that there is more than light pressure on the front or rear glass).  Continue wrapping until the bubblewrap is at least 2" thick all around, including front, rear, and at the corners. You should end up with an egg-shaped mass of bubblewrap that can be rolled around with impunity. Then put your bubblewrapped metal egg in a strong box (double walled preferred), with at least 3" of foam "peanuts" firmly packed all around so that the model cannot migrate to a corner of the box where it is vulnerable to a localized blow. Use an extra layer of scrap cardboard inside the bottom of the box beneath the peanuts for extra strength. When the box is taped shut, shake it - if you feel any movement of the car inside you must repack with additional peanuts. A heavy item like this will settle slightly in the foam peanuts during shipping, and any movement now is asking for damage when the box is handled and transported several times. Double tape the bottom of the box for strength, and tape all flap seams (usually the two shorter sides of the top and bottom).